Women Riders World Relay

Never could I have anticipated that it would feel this powerful, I had just signed up to join the ride and meet the girls and yet there I was – one of the Guardians carrying the baton from Zaragoza to Andorra. However, symbols are powerful and should not be underestimated. Slowly, woman by woman, this baton had made its way from John O’Groats in northern Scotland, via Ireland, Wales, England, France, northern Spain and Portugal. Hundreds of women before me had held the baton, signed the scroll and passed it on. And this was just the beginning, onwards to the north and then to the east and further east, on to Australia and New Zealand, over to Canada, down through the Americas and finally up through Africa. This week it all ends in Dubai and next week we’ll have the final party in London. I can’t wait to meet all the women I have met through the WRWR, Women Riders World Relay – a game changing idea by Hayley Bell – that the world of women motorcyclists came to embrace and ride for.

My first contact with Hayley was shortly after she put her idea up in a woman’s motorcycling group on Facebook. As the purpose of the WRWR and the aim of WIMA overlapped in large part, I contacted her immediately when I saw the message. I wanted to help in my capacity as international president. Please boil down the essence of WRWR into one paragraph so I can help spread the word, I asked Hayley. “We co-ordinate women motorcycle riders across the world to participate in Women Riders World Relay, bringing fun, experience, confidence and a sense of unity to women riders globally” was her answer. The overarching goal for WIMA is to promote international friendship through motorcycling, so yeah, there you go, match made!

My own actual riding participation in the relay was small, just one leg, but the experience was great. I met the Spanish Ambassador Eva and the girls in Zaragoza. I had arrived late, riding straight from work, but just in time for the interview with the TV crew broadcasting live on national TV. Our ride to Andorra was a breeze, nice weather and pleasant food and coffee stops, no hardship at all. However, when we arrived in Andorra it was raining and the team from Andorra, Penya Motorista L’Esquirol, had been waiting for quite some time at the border. They were cold and wet but very welcoming. They escorted us into the city where we were welcomed by people in general and the mayor in particular. The high street was closed off and there were photoshoots, meet and greets and then, off to our hotel. Muntza, the Andorran Ambassador, had arranged everything very neatly and we were very well taken care off. At dinner, I learned that the French girls taking over the baton were actually WIMA France members, amusing as I had tried to recruit them to WIMA before finding out. On the other hand they tried to recruit me to the following leg, and I had decided to tag along but a severe headache put a halt to that plan and I had to wave my goodbyes in Andorra de la Vella while they rode on towards Italy.

The WRWR team in Zaragoza
Muntza and Eva
Muntza and Eva
Eva showing us the scroll that is inside the baton
Eva showing us the scroll that is inside the baton
The French WRWR team

Back home, networking continued and now, by contrast, I was contacted by women who wanted to bring their country’s WRWR participants together under the WIMA flag. WIMA Norway was initiated by Emilija and Ann Kathrine did the same for WIMA Luxembourg. In the meantime, the baton was kept moving through northern Europe despite rain and snow. The baton continued on through eastern Europe and into Asia. I kept a close eye on the progress and followed the informative and entertaining daily live videos provided by Colette, the amazing Australian who was determined to follow the relay for as long as she could.

French ripple relay on WIMA Day

Summer came and I arrived in Sweden to spend some time with family between jobs. Simultaneously with the world relay, many countries arranged ripple relays with the purpose of involving all the areas that the baton had not been able to reach. As I had enjoyed being part of the kick off for the French ripple relay on International WIMA Day back in May, I thought that it was a pity that there wasn’t a ripple going in Sweden. Lots of people had shown disappointment that the relay didn’t come to their area or that they were not able to take part on the actual days the relay passed. I thought that there would be enough interest to make a ripple happen, if only someone would kick start it. I was thinking all these things while I baked the traditional midsummer cake for my father and when I put the cake in the oven I thought, why could it not be me? By the time the cake had baked I had made up my mind, I would do it!

The Swedish WRWR Ambassadors, Ina and Berit, had already arranged a reunion ride in Gothenburg on Midsummer Sunday and they let me take advantage of this as the kick off. I had a day to prepare and set up the Facebook page with information about the ripple and about its philanthropy. I had decided that the ripple would raise money for MJ Piki, a female workshop and transport service in Tanzania. I hoped to raise 327 euros, enough to pay for the full driver’s license training, paperwork and test of another woman rider.

The kick off went overwhelmingly well and people were very positive. Slowly the flag, together with a guestbook and a roadmaster t-shirt, made its way up north, all the way to Trerikesröset, where Norway, Sweden and Finland meet. One of the riders, Margareta, hiked 20 kilometres to make it to the actual point. In Stockholm, 1500km to the south, Susanne organised a ride within the very heart of Stockholm, at 5am, when the city was still asleep! The flag was then taken over to Gotland for a ride and some iconic photos by the mediaeval city wall of Visby. It then continued further down to Skåne, before finishing at WIMA Sweden’s autumn meet near Gothenburg, covering a shade over 5000km over 23 riding days with around 90 participants in total. There, Ina took the flag on a final tour on frosty roads before sending it off to Hayley. The roadmaster t-shirt and the guestbook have now been auctioned and in total we have raised about 750 euros for MJ Piki. As this is a lot more than the initial goal, we can contribute to the general running of their workshop.

The MJ Piki riders

Of all the things I set out to do last year, I must say that the ripple relay is what I am most proud of. For the ripple, just as for the relay, my riding contribution was small, but my main work was behind the scenes, networking and connecting people. The WRWR has been a very intensive experience where I have communicated with so many women, literally from all over the world, and I look forward immensely to seeing some of them in London on Valentine’s weekend, when we celebrate our achievement and of course Hayley – the woman who was brave enough to dream big.

Versya, Hayley and myself at the International WIMA rally in Derbyshire

El Otoñal – the autumn meet, with Mujeres en Moto

Last weekend, I was fortunate to have the opportunity to join the Mujeres en Moto’s autumn meet again. The Otoñal, as it is called, was held in a tiny little village called Anento, in the vicinity of Zaragoza.

I arrived very late on the Friday, just barely made it for dinner at 10pm and pretty much was ready to fall into bed after that. With a full week’s teaching in my back, I pretty much fall into bed every Friday evening, so add 4+ hours on the bike to that and go figure, I was dead. Fortunately, this year I did not wake up with fever Saturday morning, but could fully enjoy the event from then on. And I was even told my Spanish has become better, but really it hasn’t – I just think I’m better all round without fever.

Saturday offered excellent weather and Eva, la jefa, i.e. the president of Mujeres en Moto, had prepared a ride for us with scheduled stops for coffee and photos. Unfortunately, we had an accident early on, a rider slipped on the farm dirt on the tarmac and skidded into the ditch, fortunately though without any real damage to either bike or person. As the accident happened, the nearest riders stopped, parked and rushed to help and, with joint women power and impressive efficiency, the bike was back on the road. The following day it was my turn to receive this favour, but more about that later.

The area around Anento was perfect for riding. I love the tiny farm roads and little villages which seem lost in time, it was an amazing ride out – my only complaint was that I had dressed too warm;y so my warm mid-layer had to go at the coffee stop. I’m so thankful for the flexible Knox layering system, it makes changing weather conditions so easy to handle – and it is such a lovely problem, feeling too warm in the end of October, isn’t it?! We had our coffee stop in a village with 30 inhabitants, we must have helped the turnover of that pub considerably with the purchase of our drinks. The lovely little bar-lady kept herself busy making coffee after coffee and serving peanuts and cold drinks while we posed for photos in the plaza and enjoyed the music from Teresa’s mighty trike. There were about 70 of us, so quite a sight for the locals.

Onward we rode to another tiny village, where, with permission from the police, we parked outside the wall and gate and posed for photos. After this, we were homebound for lunch at the Albergue in Anento, followed by a tour of the town and its surroundings. The countryside around Anento is quite astonishing with the gorge, the water features, cliff formations and castle on the top. With witch hats being obligatory for the tour, the 70 of us trailing along in our pointy hats certainly looked impressive!

The Saturday ended with a Halloween masquerade dinner and while I know that heaps of adults love to do this, sadly I’m not one of them. Just like last year, I just didn’t bother. I know it annoys some but I see such things as part of my work and just can’t be arsed on my free time. I was a green face witch at our Halloween event at work, much to the children’s (and parents’) delight – and no, there are no photos from this event 🙂 I do, however have plenty of photos and videos from the Otoñal. Share and enjoy!

Just like last year, the disco was such a strange cultural experience for me. Eva played song after song and it was evident that everyone knew literally every word of the lyrics and these are songs that I’ve never heard before. I do listen to Spanish music and there are several artists I really like, but nothing has ever prepared me for the Mujeres en Moto disco experience. This is a bit of Spanish culture I cannot tap into, just enjoy it through the eyes of a foreigner 🙂 And I do enjoy it!

Sunday morning I returned home taking a mix of lovely little farm roads and larger roads. It was a beautiful day, I made several stops, for lunch, for coffee, I even had a siesta on a bench beside the road. Excellent end to a busy weekend. However, before signing off I want to extend my warmest thanks to the ladies who rushed to help me when, much to my own surprise, I fell over on my bike at the parking lot in Anento. The bike was erected before I had even understood what had happened, erhm – lock still attached to the brake disk. There is a first time for everything and I’m so happy I didn’t fall and damage anything or anyone, or even myself. Live and learn!

At least life is not boring

Yesterday was an amazing day. I had been upset with the GPS, which kept suggesting big roads and even highways despite using the “avoid highways” setting. Therefore, I took control and aimed for Trier and the Mosel valley. I’ve been there many times in the early years of my motorbike travelling but never in such perfect weather. I was thinking that things really could not get better when I saw a sign for Polo to the left and Louis to the right. Lucky coincidence again, my two favourite shops in Germany. I always try to pass at least one of them to see if there is something I need – most of my gear is actually bought in Germany. For this trip I had tried to find the addresses for Louis shops in particular, since I wanted to exchange my boots that have been leaking since I got them. Unfortunately, their website wasn’t working so I couldn’t obtain the addresses and their customer service said that I couldn’t exchange the boots, only send them in to them – they would then send them to the manufacturer for analysis and repair. Since they are my only boots, that couldn’t happen unless I bought a new pair.

Riding along Mosel again
Riding along Mosel again

So, I started shopping. In Polo, I found a first aid kit and new rain trousers. Onwards to Louis, I provided myself with free coffee and started trying on boots, unfortunately I made a mess and spilled the coffee all over the floor and a bit in my helmet but no one was angry and everyone was very nice and helpful. I explained that I needed to buy a new pair of boots so I could send the old ones in since they were leaking. No problem, they could help with that. Now, I don’t know if it was something that got lost in translation but they did an exchange for my old boots against my new boots and even refunded the excess cost for which I could buy luggage straps. And yes, would I like some coffee while they sorted out the payment.

Now I would like to mention that I am an extremely honest person, but I believe that I had the right to get new boots since the old one had been malfunctioning from the start. Also, I would like to mention, as an example of my honesty, that when the Ducati garage in Spain forgot to charge me for a tyre that they changed together with the service I went back and notified them and paid the 150 euros they forgot to charge. With the boots sorted I rode Mosel feeling incredibly lucky. I even decided to celebrate with a proper meal, the first after two days with raw food and beans. I had a yummy scrummy falafel in bread and a beer (alkoholfrei of course) and then I rode on. At this point I analysed my new boots, how they felt, stiff for sure, a bit tight and did they let the vibrations through more than the old ones? I am super sensitive for vibrations after some nerve damage a few years ago and I feel everything with my feet. Maybe the new boots were punishing me and my luck was running out– now, of course, I had to remind myself that I don’t believe in bad omens.

That evening I found a campsite by Mosel and life felt perfect. However, it was mighty difficult to tighten the chain, the tension was uneven and when I thought that I had got it right and screwed back the bolt, it caused the chain to go super tight. After a lot of work, I thought I had managed and went for shower and beer enjoying my book until the sun set.

Tent is up and laundry is done, it is time for ein Bitburger - bitte ein bit! :)
Tent is up and laundry is done, it is time for ein Bitburger – bitte ein bit! 🙂

This morning started of wonderfully with coffee in the sun and some twisty roads through the mountains. My left foot, which is my most sensitive one was really suffering from the vibrations. I had to hang it off the bike regularly to not go numb. When I started to think back on when it last was this bad (usually this is not happening in speeds lower than 90k/h) I got a flash back to the Grand Tour when my Ducati had a chain catastrophe and my leg got totally numb from the vibrations. Well, I had to stop hand check the chain. Despite having tightened it just the night before it was slack… and tight, and slack again… One spot was so slack that I thought the chain could jump off. It was not like this yesterday. I unloaded the luggage and tried to get it sorted but it was impossible. I was pretty much pulling my hair out when a man on a scooter showed up. After concluding that we couldn’t sort it out he decided to guide me 3 kilometres to a good garage he knew.

The chain could not be salvaged and to make a long story short I have now a new chain on the bike and the new sprockets in my pannier. Amazingly enough, they went off to collect a kit for me but had only time to replace the chain since they were very busy. I am forever grateful that they spent a couple of hours helping me on a Friday afternoon. I’ll try and ride carefully to Hungary and hopefully I can replace the sprockets there.

Now this all sound easy peasy in retrospect but it was a very stressful day for me. With everything that has happened lately (ie. Brexit) and the uncertainty in life that is the effect of it (about Christopher losing his status as a European Union citizen and what that will lead to for us) I really needed a peaceful holiday. I was barely coping with the GPS messing about and finding places to charge my phone, let alone major breakdowns.

In the end all was good. I went for a run, then a beer and salad. Now I can wait to get into my sleeping bag. I’m glad I didn’t know this when I sipped my morning coffee looking out over Mosel. I hope tomorrow is less eventful and more full of countryside roads than anything else.

At this point, when writing the above, I was just going to collect my phone which was left to charge in the women’s changing room. However, someone had taken it away to keep it safe in the restaurant – which was closed until next evening. Again, long story short – I had a very long morning drinking coffee with a Romanian seasonal worker while the right people were located and things got sorted out. He even gave me his old sat nav. This would simplify my continued travels, at least while I stayed in the four countries covered in the maps.

Proud to pose between these beautiful boys
Proud to pose between these beautiful boys, only slightly frightened.

Delayed again I continued and had a very good ride. In the evening I struggled to find a campsite and ended up being invited to camp with a canine agility club. Amazing, friendly people who invited me for dinner and beer and I even got to pose with their dogs. It was great to spend this time with them and get a glimpse of their hobby. Happy, I continued – little did I know what this day would present.

Along the Danube in Austria
Along the Danube in Austria

Using the GPS I rode on beautiful roads through Bavaria and into Austria following the Danube and the Romantische strasse and I had a fabulous day until I entered Hungary. First thing I saw was the police gathering evidence after a traffic accident. Later the sun set and it got dark. There were lots of insects out and about and I collected a fair bit of them, on the bike and myself. I had to stop frequently to wipe the visor, quite unpleasant. Then my phone died, in Hungary I had to use my phone as a GPS since the GPS gifted to me by the Romanian guy didn’t have a map of Hungary. So when my phone/GPS died I was in trouble. I had to get myself a map, which I did, and try and read it in the dark. Under these circumstances I decided that the easiest way to get to Eszergom was from the Slovakian side. If I would have known that the road was narrow, without road markings or light I probably would have thought differently. I rode for 50 kilometres in darkness, being cold but too afraid of the dark to stop and put more layers on, feeling stressed about being alone and of being followed… In general I was just trying not to panic and I was extremely tired after over 12 hours riding. When I finally reach the bridge to Esztergom it was closed because of a bomb threat. The only other way was to go back where I came from. No way! In Swedish we have a saying, that one needs to break down to go on. This was such a moment, I sat down and had a little cry, then I pulled myself together and considered my options. Having done so, I realised that the best alternative, considering how tired I was, simply was to sit down, eat some sweets and wait for the bridge to open. At least I was safe, after all there were lots of police, and while I was waiting the phone slowly charged up to 2%, (which is the limit when I can send text messages) and I could report that I was safe. After a shade over an hour, the bridge was open and I could continue. My friends were waiting for me and after an evening snack I rolled out my sleeping mat in the back of their van. Zooink! What a ride – I’m in no hurry to do that again.

Upon arrival I was given Bumm chocolate since I had a bum journey
Upon arrival I was given Bumm chocolate since I had a bum journey