Going North | Day 6: Mailly-le-Camp – Altenahr

Today was a crazy day. I set out early thinking that it would be a long ride. Afterwards, I’m happy I didn’t quite know how long it would be. While plotting the route and writing down the directions I concluded with some satisfaction that I would ride in three countries today. That is always special, even though Luxembourg is such a tiny country.

riding some very long and straight roads in France
riding some very long and straight roads in France

I started off taking the wrong turn compared with what I had planned. I thought it would be alright to re-calculate and continued. Unfortunately, there was a road construction later on and I was re-directed and ended up almost where I had started, a 100 km detour on the straightest roads in France.

time for a snickers
time for a Snickers

While leaving France after Longwy I followed the road signs for Luxembourg and was taken by surprise by the border to Belgium. Not knowing it, another detour was made and while finding Luxembourg later on I hardly found my way out of it. How can a petite country possibly last that long?! Making sacred promises never to go back to Luxembourg without a GPS or a map reader I at last found a way out and could continue into Germany. I had now been on the bike for 6 hours and it wasn’t over yet.

filling up energy for the twisty bits
filling up energy for the twisty bits.

Now remained the twisty roads of the Eiffel mountains and they lasted all the way to the Biker hotel, Gasthaus am Tunnel, which is my stay for tonight. I arrived after 9 hours riding and was so tired that I almost fell off the stool having my long awaited German beer. That beer was followed by a few more and in good company on the terrace.

Gasthaus am Tunnerl
Gasthaus am Tunnerl

My thanks today goes to:

The nice Dutch guys who invited me to their table when I was sitting alone with my computer. Enjoy your days of riding and take care!!

Going North | Day 5: La Grande Chaume – Motos Plus – Mailly-le-Camp

Today has been a very rich and productive day. I slept long and after breakfast I got two pieces of good news. John had called the garage and my chain kit had arrived, and I called Stena Line and they re-scheduled my ferry ticket for the day after with no extra charge, since I had a Flexi Ticket.

I went for a walk to have a last look of the surroundings and relaxed a bit. The garage would take my bike at 2 o clock, after the French lunchtime so there was no rush. I was invited for lunch with Annice and John and we seemed to have a lot to talk about. Filled with energy I was then ready to continue my journey. John escorted me to the garage, Motos Plus, and waited with me to see that all was good, the bike was loaded and then he waved me off before returning home.

The helpfull garage in Mulans
The helpful garage in Moulins
that looks soo much better
that looks soo much better

Life can change quickly, and this time it changed to the better. I hit the road today filled with joy again. I had overcome difficulties and gained new friends. I had never have imagined that I would arrive to the house of a previous bike mechanic with a history in motorcycle racing. And that I would leave with not only a new chain but plenty of advice on nice areas to visit around Lancaster and the Lake district. Life sometimes gives extraordinary meetings and this was one of those.

a beautiful place to eat a banana
a beautiful place to eat a banana

Today I rode in sunshine and the scenery was beautiful. I had no accommodation booked since I thought it would be easy to find something along the way. The previous days I had seen lots and lots of signs. I did see a few today as well, until my decided time to start asking, then there was suddenly rarely any. I started to worry that I was too late, this is difficult to calculate because I don’t want to start too early and miss out on riding. My third try gave a result and I’m in a cheap roadside hotel in Mailly-Le-Camp. Unfortunately, no internet but otherwise fine. I could take the Ducati and park it in the back, shielded from the road, and that is always appreciated.

The viillage is tiny but has a military base. There was some army dressed guys hovering over my bike before I moved it, but they seemed intimidated and loomed away when I came. I can’t be bothered to have a look around town or even have dinner, crisps from the vending machine and some energy drink will do. I want to sleep.

My thanks today goes to:

Motos Plus in Moulins who were willing to take my bike in urgently and helped me out today.

And, again to John who organised everything, and to Annice for her generosity.

La Grande Chaume, I came and I stayed.

I arrived yesterday all stressed out because of my numb feet and the worn out chain. I didn’t know that there was internet but was lucky and relieved that I could go online and start investigating options for my bike and me.

The host couple, Annice and John gave me a friendly welcome and when Annice asked me the second time if I was alright (I guess I didn’t quite seem alright) I told her that I had a problem and urgently needed a new chain. She went off to get John and he started to investigate options for me and promised to make phone calls in the morning. I can’t put words on how relieved I felt to get help with this, especially since I was already worried about my stupid numb feet and tired after the day and on top off all not speaking any French.

This gave me the possibility to get a good night’s sleep which I so much needed, I consume a lot off energy when worrying, more than biscuits can replace. At breakfast it was clear that the nearest town could order a chain and sprocket for the next day. No place kept them in stock. I had plans to go to Reims, about 450 km north, but there they couldn’t help me until next week. After some further work on the chain where we pulled the bike up to give it a proper look while trying, without success, to tighten it it was clear that it needed replacement. The chain still kept slacking while still having a very tight spot. Therefore, I decided to stay here another night and if it all goes according to the new plan, the garage will have the kit tomorrow and can put it on at 2 o’clock they said.

So then I spent some time cancelling my remaining 3 stays on “Going North” and e-mailing Stena Line to see if I can reschedule the ferry for Monday instead. I haven’t got a reply from the ferry company yet, but the others worked out fine. Have to wait and see if I get charged though.

The rest of the day I have spent on the internet surfing around and chatting, and I have been out walking taking pictures of the area and the animals. I was invited to join the hosts and their friends from Holland for a superb lunch. I had forgotten that food could be that tasty, and I had a good time talking about this and that and life seemed a lot brighter.

If you’re interested in this place check their website: La Grande Chaume

I went for a walk to move my feet and fill my mind with prettyness
I went for a walk to move my feet and fill my mind with prettiness
and I said hello to the donkeys, they are friendly caracters
and I said hello to the donkeys, they are friendly characters

I couldn’t have come to a better place with my problems and I certainly feel very fortunate despite everything that has happened.

can you imagine that this is a hostel - fantastic isn't it!?!
can you imagine that this is a hostel – fantastic isn’t it!?!
my room is up the stairs then to the left
my room is up the stairs then to the left

My greatest thanks today:
The Swedish Ducati Club for always providing useful and witty answers to my questions put on the forum.

My host couple Annice and John for being ever so helpful.

Christopher for listening to my brainstorming and giving me feedback on my ideas for the rest of Going North.

The lesson I learnt:
I must always ask and confirm with the garage about what has been done and not only assume that things have been done according to the book.